Unpainted Surfaces:

No two unpainted surfaces are the same – different surfaces need different preparation to allow for the best end result. Plus, the appropriate prepcoat and topcoat will also differ depending on the surface. These processes are suitable for unpainted (bare) surfaces.

CHALKING CHECK:

To determine the degree of chalking, rub your finger or a dark cloth over the surface. Dampen the area and scrub with Sugar Soap. Clean off and dry, and then repeat the process to ensure all chalking has been removed.

Cross-Hatch Adhesion test:

Check the condition of the previous coating of paint to ensure it’s in good condition. If the current coating is not in good condition, the new coating may not adhere to the surface and will cause future paint problems. Check the condition of your surface by following these steps:

1. Use a sharp blade to cut an X into the existing paint coatings.
2. Place a piece of sticky tape over the X and press down firmly.
3. Quickly peel the tape off the surface.
4. Repeat the process in different areas of the surface to check the entire surface.

If flakes of paint are stuck to the sticky tape, or have flaked away from the test surface, the current coating is not suitable to be painted over. The existing paint should be removed by sanding or stripping the surface back and treating the area as a new, unpainted surface.

If there is no paint on the tape, and no paint has been removed from the test areas, your surface is suitable for repainting.

Contaminant Clean:

Contaminants will sit on the surface of the substrate and previous coating, and the residue of these contaminants can affect the adhesion of the new paint. Contaminants can include dirt, dust, salt, oil, grease, mould, surface moisture and residual cleaning products.

To ensure the surface is free from any residue;

1. Clean the surface with Selley’s Sugar Soap to remove all contaminants
2. Thoroughly wipe the surface down after the Sugar Soap with a water-soaked rag free of any chemicals to wipe away any traces of the Sugar Soap. As it is a cleaning product, the residue of the sugar soap can also affect the adhesion of any coats.
3. Ensure the surface is completely dry before beginning the painting process.

Lead Testing:

Before 1970, paint used on the interiors and exteriors of houses contained high levels of lead. White lead was used as the main white pigment in house paint, therefore will be found in pretty much all paint. Recognising the major health impacts that lead paints caused, in 1970 Australia limited the amount of lead able to be in paint to 1%, and in 1997 further reduced that amount to 0.1%.

Therefore, when painting in an older house, it’s important to test to see if there is any lead present in the paint. This is particularly important if your surface is flaking or chalking.

Lead tests can be purchased from Inspirations Paint, and are easy to conduct. Follow the instructions on the packaging of your Lead Test Kit to determine if there is lead present.

Previous Paint / Metho Test:

It’s important to know whether oil-based or water-based (acrylic) paint was used on the existing surface. Knowing the type of paint used will determine what type of paint and processes need to be followed when repainting.

1. Apply methylated spirits to a clean rag so the rag is moist
2. Rub the painted surface with the metho-soaked rag
3. Check the surface and rag to see what effect the metho has had

If the paint on the surface has slightly dissolved, or the paint has rubbed off onto the rag, the coating used is water-based (acrylic).

If there has been no effect on the painted surface, and there is no paint on the rag, the surface has been painted with an oil-based paint.

Acrylic based

1. Scrub the surface down with Sugar Soap to remove any stains, dirt or grease.
2. Lightly sand the surface with 180 – 240 grit sandpaper, wiping away excess dust particles.
3. For walls, apply two coats of acrylic topcoat. For doors and trims, apply two coats of acrylic enamel topcoat.

Oil based

1. Scrub the surface down with Sugar Soap to remove any stains, dirt or grease.
2. Lightly sand the surface with 180 – 240 grit sandpaper, wiping away excess dust particles.
3. Apply one coat of acrylic or oil-based primer sealer undercoat.
4. For walls, apply two coats of acrylic or oil-based topcoat. For doors and trims, apply two coats of acrylic or oil-based enamel topcoat

Stained / clear timber coat

1. If the surface has a stain or clear coat, scrub the surface down with Sugar Soap to remove any stains or dirt.
2. Lightly sand the surface with 80-120 or 180–240 grit sandpaper, wiping away excess dust particles.
3. Apply one coat of acrylic or oil-based primer sealer undercoat.
4. For walls, apply two coats of acrylic or oil-based topcoat. For doors and trims, apply two coats of acrylic or oil-based enamel topcoat

Lead paint

Surfaces painted with lead paint should only be painted over if there are no disturbances to the topcoat (i.e chalking, flaking, peeling, etc.). If the topcoat is damaged, it will need to be stripped prior to painting.

1. Scrub the surface down with Sugar Soap to remove any grease or dirt.
2. Apply one coat of acrylic or oil-based sealer.
3. For walls, apply two coats of acrylic or oil-based topcoat. For doors and trims, apply two coats of acrylic or oil-based enamel topcoat

prepcoat:

A prepcoat is any coat of paint applied to your substrate to prepare for the application of the topcoat. Primers, sealers and undercoats are all prepcoats.  When painting a new surface, the prepcoat is actually the most important step of a panting project!

primer

A primer is the first coat of paint applied to the substrate. A primer has many purposes, including:
- Blocking out stains and tannins
- Stops rust occurring on a metal surface
- Smooths out imperfections on a rough surface
- Creates a barrier to stop moisture travelling from the substrate to the topcoat
- Some primers contain properties that assist to prevent mould and fungus from developing

sealer

A sealer is a special type of primer designed to be used with, or in place of, a primer. A sealer prevents the topcoat from soaking into the substrate, and to a degree, can create a water-resistant layer between the substrate and topcoat.

undercoat

An undercoat is used after a primer. It is used to fill any minor imperfections to create a smooth, even-coloured surface ready for the application of the topcoat. An undercoat also assists to lighten a surface when changing from a dark to a pale colour.

general prepcoat

Typically, today you can buy a multi-in-one prepcoat product that saves time, money and confusion! Berger's Acrylic Sealer Undercoat is great for interior surfaces and compatible with both water-based and oil-based paint. Dulux 1 Step™ Acrylic Primer Sealer & Undercoat are great options for both interior and exterior projects.

specialty prepcoat

There are prepcoats that are designed for specific uses and areas. Dulux PRECISION Stain & Mould Blocker is a water based prepcoat that is a suitable for covering a range of oil based stains and is ideal for kitchens, bathrooms and laundries as it has been specially formulated to inhibit mould and mildew growth. Dulux PRECISION Maximum Adhesion Primer is a great primer for tricky surfaces - glass, tiles, laminate, glossy enamels, etc.

BRUSHES:

Choosing the brush type and size will depend on where the brush will be used. You will probably find you will need a few different brushes in order to complete your paint project.

wall brushes

Wall brushes are the most standard and common type of brush. Typically available in square and oval brush shapes, they are suited to general broad wall painting. Wall brushes are designed to hold more paint due to the thicker bristles or filaments which creates a longer, smoother brush stroke.

CUTTER brushes

Cutter brushes are designed for use on trims, and for ‘cutting in’ before roller painting. They are specially made for door and window frames, and ceiling, wall and corner sections. They generally have less filament than wall brushes as there isn’t a need to hold as much paint in the brush, while the long handle helps to control the stroke. There are several alternative shapes in these long handle brushes.
Sash Cutter - a full bodied cutting in brush ideally suited for the application of water based paints.
Oval Cutter - the oval shape gives greater control and accuracy on the edges of the brush, and holds more paint in the centre.
Angle Cutter - is basically the same as the sash cutter however the top of the brush is made at an angle rather than straight across. The head of the brush and the ferrule are both made at an angle so that the tips of the filament or bristle are retained. This angle assists the user to be able to cut to a sharper more accurate area.
Lining Fitch - thin and with stiff bristles to get into those hard to reach places. Also great for acheiving a straight line.

Brush Widths

The size or width of the brush will also need to be considered when planning your paint project.
25mm: For small jobs & touch-up work such as chairs & timber trim.
38mm: Suitable for furniture, small panels, window frames, trellis, mouldings, shutters and downpipes.
50mm: For small to medium size work such as doors, screens, table tops, railings and cabinets.
63mm: Fitting for outdoor furniture, cupboards, gutters, eaves and doors.
75mm: For medium to large areas such as fence posts and rails, floor boards, steps, skirtings and fascias.
100mm: For all large areas. Most suitable for walls, floors, ceilings, roofs, fences.

ROLLERS:

roller covers

Just like with paint brushes, choosing the right roller cover is an important step in the DIY project. Roller covers are made from different material types, each designed for certain surfaces, finishes and paint types.
Lambskin roller covers are naturally more absorbent, which means they can hold and release paint more efficiently. Lambskin roller covers are recommended on concrete and render surfaces.
Microfibre roller covers are generally used on ceilings and walls. Microfibre covers tend to have good pick-up and transfer of paint with minimal shedding.
Polyester covers are a lower quality of roller cover. They are best suited to interior walls, ceilings and rendered surfaces.
Foam rollers are best used on doors and trims as they are ideal for achieving high gloss finishes.
Mohair rollers are ideal for applying oil based and water based gloss and semi-gloss paints.
Textured roller covers are designed for application of specialty finishes e.g. fine cover texture, etc.

NAP

A “nap” is a term that refers to the height of the fleece on a roller cover. The larger the nap, the more paint that the roller cover can hold.

4-6mm nap height is best used for gloss paints.
10-12mm nap height is best suited when applying matt, low sheen, undercoats to walls and ceilings
15-30mm nap height is most suitable for concrete surfaces and rendered walls.

Roller Accessories

A roller frame allows the roller cover to roll paint onto the substrate smoothly.

Using an extension pole gets a more even finish as the extension pole allows for longer brushstrokes to be used. Extension poles are commonly used when painting the walls or ceiling.

drop sheets:

canvas

Canvas drop sheets are an absorbent cloth that holds any spilt paint, and are available in a range of sizes. The absorbency of the canvas means the paint soaks into the drop cloth rather than pooling onto the surface, allowing for an easy clean-up and a slip-free painting area. Canvas drop sheets are incredibly durable, withstanding lots of wear-and-tear, and can be reused several times.

plastic

Plastic drop sheets are light-weight, cost effective and waterproof (unless they sustain damages, e.g. rips or punctures). Plastic drop sheets are only designed for one or two uses before being disposed.

fillers:

Fillers are used when there are cracks, holes or imperfections in the substrate which need to be filled to ensure there is a smooth final surface.

powder fillers

Powder fillers need to be mixed with water in order to apply to the surface. Powder fillers are a cost effective filler available for both interior and exterior substrates.

lightweight fillers

There are ready-mixed fillers that are suitable for small to medium sized cracks and holes. Lightweight fillers are convenient and easy to use.

ready-mixed fillers

Ready mixed fillers are a convenient option that is easy to apply. Ready-mixed fillers harden by evaporation, so it is likely to shrink during the drying process. When used on deep/large cracks and holes, it can take a long time to fully set.

caulk fillers

Filler products are available in caulking tubes that allows for an easy application. Fillers that come in a caulking tube are generally made of flexible acrylic that dries as a smooth, plastic-like finish. They are generally used when filling gaps between skirting boards, door frames and architraves. A caulking gun is needed for application.

abrasives:

Abrasives are used to smooth the surface prior to painting. Sandpaper comes in different ‘grits’ (i.e. – coarseness). The lower the grit, the coarser the sandpaper is.
Abrasives are often available as: cork block, sandpaper roll, pads, sheets, pole sander.

tapes:

Tapes are used to protect the surface from stray paint and spray, and helps to achieve a perfect line. Professional painter’s tapes are rated in days, which indicated how long the tape can be left on the surface without leaving any residue. High quality tapes also prevent edge bleed.  It is never recommended to use standard masking tape for your paint project as it often leaves a sticky residue and does not prevent bleed.

CLEANING BRUSHES:

CLEANING ROLLERS: